1
00:00:13,555 --> 00:00:14,723
When I was a child,

2
00:00:16,808 --> 00:00:18,143
the first memory I have

3
00:00:18,936 --> 00:00:20,479
It's from a dream

4
00:00:21,688 --> 00:00:22,773
that I was falling into.

5
00:00:49,967 --> 00:00:51,843
I always wondered,
as I grew up,

6
00:00:53,303 --> 00:00:56,223
if it was some kind of premonition
of the fall that would cause my death.

7
00:01:02,688 --> 00:01:05,147
But I feel
very intensely

8
00:01:06,149 --> 00:01:09,528
the need to move towards
to this unknown and to this fear.

9
00:02:22,643 --> 00:02:27,731
DEAN POTTER: THE DARK WIZARD

10
00:02:29,024 --> 00:02:32,903
THE DEADLY CONSEQUENCE

11
00:02:34,571 --> 00:02:35,614
And...

12
00:02:35,947 --> 00:02:36,990
ready.

13
00:02:37,366 --> 00:02:38,408
He can talk.

14
00:02:38,492 --> 00:02:39,660
My name is Dean

15
00:02:40,577 --> 00:02:42,204
- and...
- "My name is Dean Potter."

16
00:02:44,247 --> 00:02:46,333
I never say
that my name is Dean Potter.

17
00:02:47,584 --> 00:02:50,796
Unless you are talking about business,
and this is so that people have

18
00:02:51,171 --> 00:02:52,381
a good impression of me.

19
00:02:52,506 --> 00:02:53,548
It's fine.

20
00:02:53,632 --> 00:02:55,050
So my name is Dean.

21
00:02:58,095 --> 00:03:01,640
There is a whole mythology
around Dean Potter.

22
00:03:03,475 --> 00:03:04,518
For a long time,

23
00:03:05,143 --> 00:03:06,186
I met Dean

24
00:03:06,937 --> 00:03:09,690
better than any
another person in the world.

25
00:03:09,773 --> 00:03:11,650
BRAD LYNCH DEAN'S FRIEND

26
00:03:13,402 --> 00:03:15,362
And he remains an enigma.

27
00:03:16,571 --> 00:03:17,614
 �.

28
00:03:18,281 --> 00:03:19,408
Let's start at the beginning.

29
00:03:24,204 --> 00:03:28,417
I met Dean in the desert
from West Texas at Hueco Tanks.

30
00:03:29,418 --> 00:03:31,378
It was a climbing point
very popular at the time.

31
00:03:31,837 --> 00:03:36,174
People spent the whole winter
climbing those huge rocks.

32
00:03:38,218 --> 00:03:41,763
Right at the exit of the park, there was
a corrugated steel Quonset Hut.

33
00:03:43,140 --> 00:03:44,182
I entered

34
00:03:45,434 --> 00:03:48,145
and the first thing I noticed
it was the smell of climbers.

35
00:03:50,105 --> 00:03:52,065
There were sleeping bags on the floor

36
00:03:53,650 --> 00:03:54,692
and some guys snoring.

37
00:03:54,901 --> 00:03:56,194
And there was a guy

38
00:03:56,528 --> 00:03:58,363
with a big tent pole
and long

39
00:03:58,572 --> 00:04:01,241
with a tennis ball
glued with tape at the tip.

40
00:04:01,658 --> 00:04:03,201
When people started
snoring,

41
00:04:03,994 --> 00:04:06,455
he beat them
on the other side of the room.

42
00:04:06,663 --> 00:04:08,290
He beat and beat.

43
00:04:09,332 --> 00:04:10,375
I thought, "Wow,

44
00:04:12,252 --> 00:04:13,336
what an attitude...

45
00:04:14,504 --> 00:04:16,464
dominant, I think."

46
00:04:18,884 --> 00:04:21,678
I started climbing when I was 17
in New Hampshire.

47
00:04:22,220 --> 00:04:25,974
That year, I missed class
as many days as possible

48
00:04:26,767 --> 00:04:29,019
and did anything
to climb.

49
00:04:30,645 --> 00:04:32,773
I took my parents' car
without permission,

50
00:04:33,732 --> 00:04:36,151
wreck my parents' car
without permission.

51
00:04:37,110 --> 00:04:38,403
He had a small group.

52
00:04:38,945 --> 00:04:39,988
There was Timmy.

53
00:04:40,363 --> 00:04:42,491
I was a stuck up guy
the smart girl from Philadelphia,

54
00:04:42,866 --> 00:04:44,701
totally in love
for the moment.

55
00:04:45,577 --> 00:04:48,622
We were climbers,
it was so easy.

56
00:04:49,331 --> 00:04:50,457
And there was Jim.

57
00:04:50,916 --> 00:04:53,835
We were all coming from a life
which did not satisfy us.

58
00:04:54,419 --> 00:04:57,631
At the time, climbing was a way
to build a new reality

59
00:04:58,048 --> 00:04:59,591
of what life would be like.

60
00:04:59,925 --> 00:05:01,718
For me,
it was a question of counterculture.

61
00:05:02,385 --> 00:05:05,889
I had dropped out of school a lot
early and was playing in bands.

62
00:05:06,473 --> 00:05:08,975
When I discovered
this climbing scenario,

63
00:05:09,851 --> 00:05:11,728
I thought, "These are my people."

64
00:05:14,314 --> 00:05:15,816
I remember that,
when I met Dean,

65
00:05:16,233 --> 00:05:17,943
he was huge.

66
00:05:18,985 --> 00:05:20,779
Very tall, 1.98m tall,

67
00:05:21,112 --> 00:05:23,406
intense, a bit provocative,

68
00:05:24,324 --> 00:05:25,534
but he knew how to climb.

69
00:05:25,951 --> 00:05:29,496
Most of us are just
was having fun on the rocks.

70
00:05:30,080 --> 00:05:32,832
But Dean was exploring something
very different.

71
00:05:36,670 --> 00:05:37,712
Let's go.

72
00:05:41,383 --> 00:05:42,425
Legal.

73
00:05:42,509 --> 00:05:43,552
From the beginning,

74
00:05:43,969 --> 00:05:47,472
what really set him apart
it was his relationship

75
00:05:47,722 --> 00:05:48,765
with fear.

76
00:05:49,933 --> 00:05:52,811
He was looking for climbs

77
00:05:53,270 --> 00:05:54,354
that were high

78
00:05:55,021 --> 00:05:56,022
and scary.

79
00:05:57,691 --> 00:05:58,942
For some reason,

80
00:05:59,109 --> 00:06:02,362
Dean loved that feeling
of being up there,

81
00:06:02,737 --> 00:06:03,864
very high,

82
00:06:04,698 --> 00:06:05,740
without rope.

83
00:06:06,074 --> 00:06:07,117
In free solo climbing,

84
00:06:07,284 --> 00:06:08,994
if you fall, you could die.

85
00:06:12,205 --> 00:06:14,541
But when he saw himself
in a dangerous situation,

86
00:06:14,708 --> 00:06:16,418
something in his brain
came into action

87
00:06:16,918 --> 00:06:19,421
and he could
take the fear he had

88
00:06:19,880 --> 00:06:22,716
and transform
in superhuman strength.

89
00:06:28,638 --> 00:06:30,098
In those early times,

90
00:06:31,474 --> 00:06:33,310
he was authentic,
he wasn't famous.

91
00:06:34,102 --> 00:06:36,730
He was just discovering the power
that he had.

92
00:06:38,023 --> 00:06:39,065
And back there.

93
00:06:41,610 --> 00:06:42,652
On the slackline,

94
00:06:42,986 --> 00:06:44,029
just like in surfing,

95
00:06:44,863 --> 00:06:46,990
you have to surf
a huge wave.

96
00:06:49,075 --> 00:06:50,118
Let's go.

97
00:06:51,286 --> 00:06:54,497
The next step was to take this
hundreds of meters from the ground.

98
00:06:55,916 --> 00:06:59,336
On the highline, we wonder
if the system will hold us back.

99
00:06:59,419 --> 00:07:02,172
It was all new, there was no equipment
specific for highline.

100
00:07:02,422 --> 00:07:03,590
One, two, three.

101
00:07:03,840 --> 00:07:04,883
One, two, three.

102
00:07:04,966 --> 00:07:08,637
No one else is developing
the technical part of the highline.

103
00:07:09,554 --> 00:07:11,681
It's just me and my close friends.

104
00:07:13,391 --> 00:07:14,976
And they are not geniuses.

105
00:07:15,268 --> 00:07:16,311
Can you handle it?

106
00:07:19,648 --> 00:07:20,815
System failure.

107
00:07:23,944 --> 00:07:26,071
Try riding the highline...

108
00:07:28,323 --> 00:07:30,200
It messes with your head a lot.

109
00:07:31,826 --> 00:07:33,495
You are tied to the rope...

110
00:07:35,789 --> 00:07:37,082
but it's terrifying.

111
00:07:40,627 --> 00:07:41,795
You'll make it, Timmy!

112
00:07:44,673 --> 00:07:47,092
My hands are sweating now
just thinking about it.

113
00:07:48,468 --> 00:07:51,721
But Dean
went a lot deeper into this.

114
00:07:56,558 --> 00:07:57,894
It's all about control.

115
00:08:01,022 --> 00:08:03,274
To become the master
of your mind.

116
00:08:06,945 --> 00:08:07,988
To control her.

117
00:08:12,283 --> 00:08:13,326
In a way,

118
00:08:13,827 --> 00:08:17,914
Dean's entire life was
about this fight.

119
00:08:29,592 --> 00:08:30,635
 �!

120
00:08:37,182 --> 00:08:39,182
ADAPTATION | REVIEW | SYNCHRONY:
EMAIL | loschulosteam@gmail.com

121
00:08:39,184 --> 00:08:41,730
He used to write a lot
in diaries.

122
00:08:41,813 --> 00:08:46,443
WHEN I WRITE,
WHAT COMES FROM THE SOUL

123
00:08:46,526 --> 00:08:48,028
He wrote about everything.

124
00:08:50,405 --> 00:08:52,198
His biggest dreams.

125
00:08:52,866 --> 00:08:53,908
YES, I CAN

126
00:08:53,992 --> 00:08:58,038
But also some bizarre things.

127
00:08:58,705 --> 00:09:01,499
WHY DO I WANT IT SO MUCH
WHAT DO I NOT HAVE?

128
00:09:01,583 --> 00:09:03,293
If he knew
that we read these diaries,

129
00:09:03,960 --> 00:09:05,420
I would be dying of shame.

130
00:09:08,882 --> 00:09:10,884
“Dean? Fuck, who is he?

131
00:09:11,760 --> 00:09:13,136
I don't even know. Nobody knows.

132
00:09:14,429 --> 00:09:15,847
I hope I don't go crazy.

133
00:09:16,514 --> 00:09:17,557
I haven't gone crazy yet,

134
00:09:18,308 --> 00:09:19,893
but there is always
this possibility."

135
00:09:22,479 --> 00:09:24,230
There is so much anguish.

136
00:09:24,314 --> 00:09:27,108
WHO AM I
TRYING TO IMPRESS?

137
00:09:27,650 --> 00:09:28,985
He was clearly suffering.

138
00:09:29,069 --> 00:09:30,612
CRAZY FUCK

139
00:09:30,695 --> 00:09:32,280
Some people are blessed.

140
00:09:33,698 --> 00:09:35,033
Others are cursed.

141
00:09:36,993 --> 00:09:38,286
And Dean was both.

142
00:09:40,413 --> 00:09:42,874
He was cursed
with a dark side

143
00:09:43,415 --> 00:09:45,376
which sometimes dominated him.

144
00:09:46,544 --> 00:09:50,340
It was always a struggle
with his mind.

145
00:09:51,049 --> 00:09:52,967
EVERYTHING IS MENTAL

146
00:09:53,051 --> 00:09:55,637
When I met him,
he was already thoughtful,

147
00:09:56,387 --> 00:09:58,139
very depressed.

148
00:09:59,307 --> 00:10:01,017
Sometimes we sat together,

149
00:10:01,810 --> 00:10:08,191
he had some good beers and stuff
and we sat there, crying.

150
00:10:10,235 --> 00:10:11,444
Crying my ass off.

151
00:10:12,529 --> 00:10:13,696
We both thought:

152
00:10:14,197 --> 00:10:17,951
"What's messing with this shit?
all in my head?"

153
00:10:20,620 --> 00:10:22,956
We talked about everything.

154
00:10:23,206 --> 00:10:25,875
For example, things
deep and dark moments of childhood.

155
00:10:26,126 --> 00:10:27,794
THEY ARE DEAD TO ME

156
00:10:27,919 --> 00:10:30,338
Dean had problems
with the family.

157
00:10:31,798 --> 00:10:33,007
Relationship problems.

158
00:10:34,425 --> 00:10:36,761
He was disturbed.

159
00:10:38,012 --> 00:10:39,806
I NEED TO CALM MY MIND
FIND LUCIDITY

160
00:10:39,889 --> 00:10:44,352
And it seemed like climbing
it was the only thing

161
00:10:45,228 --> 00:10:47,730
that kept
the demons away.

162
00:10:48,523 --> 00:10:50,900
I NEED TO GO TO THE MOUNTAINS

163
00:10:53,403 --> 00:10:57,198
"I climb to feel the purity
of mind and body focused,

164
00:10:57,615 --> 00:10:59,576
without being disturbed
by external thoughts."

165
00:11:01,077 --> 00:11:03,955
Dean spent many years living
in a van falling apart

166
00:11:04,789 --> 00:11:06,499
and getting by with very little.

167
00:11:07,292 --> 00:11:09,294
The best part of climbing,
for me,

168
00:11:09,878 --> 00:11:12,422
was to develop
deep friendships,

169
00:11:13,464 --> 00:11:15,800
be with people
who feel the same as me.

170
00:11:16,843 --> 00:11:18,219
Their soul is in climbing

171
00:11:19,137 --> 00:11:21,389
and to live
an alternative lifestyle,

172
00:11:22,223 --> 00:11:23,391
without much money.

173
00:11:23,766 --> 00:11:27,854
All we want to do is
climb and enjoy the beautiful sky,

174
00:11:28,021 --> 00:11:29,939
the rocks
and the world around us.

175
00:11:31,107 --> 00:11:32,609
For some,
this doesn't make sense,

176
00:11:34,360 --> 00:11:37,447
but for us it is all there is.
It's our religion.

177
00:11:37,989 --> 00:11:41,409
I WENT WEST

178
00:11:41,492 --> 00:11:43,578
FOR YOSEMITE

179
00:11:44,787 --> 00:11:48,374
I remember the first time
that I went to Yosemite with Dean.

180
00:11:49,125 --> 00:11:50,919
The face glued to the glass,

181
00:11:51,252 --> 00:11:52,837
looking at those walls.

182
00:11:54,005 --> 00:11:55,048
El Capitan.

183
00:11:56,382 --> 00:11:57,425
The Half Dome.

184
00:11:57,967 --> 00:11:59,385
This is extraordinary.

185
00:12:00,345 --> 00:12:01,512
It's hard to imagine.

186
00:12:03,097 --> 00:12:04,140
Yosemite:

187
00:12:05,141 --> 00:12:06,559
a climber's paradise.

188
00:12:08,436 --> 00:12:11,272
For generations, climbers
they were going to that valley,

189
00:12:12,232 --> 00:12:14,609
testing the limits
those immense walls.

190
00:12:16,903 --> 00:12:19,948
I was writing a book
about the history of climbing Yosemite,

191
00:12:20,406 --> 00:12:24,410
interviewing veterans and trying
build this lineage story.

192
00:12:24,869 --> 00:12:27,789
I don't even know if I had already heard
talk about Dean at the time,

193
00:12:28,456 --> 00:12:30,333
but that was about to change.

194
00:12:33,544 --> 00:12:35,713
The climb of Half Dome in 1999

195
00:12:35,922 --> 00:12:37,924
was the great watershed
for Dean.

196
00:12:38,007 --> 00:12:39,759
HALF DOME 762 METERS

197
00:12:41,427 --> 00:12:43,721
He was finding a way
totally new

198
00:12:43,805 --> 00:12:45,056
to climb large walls.

199
00:12:45,932 --> 00:12:46,975
Free solo climbing,

200
00:12:47,350 --> 00:12:49,727
but with a small piece
of rope tied to his back.

201
00:12:52,188 --> 00:12:54,732
It is a 762 meter wall.

202
00:12:59,737 --> 00:13:02,824
He climbed without a rope
for most of the route.

203
00:13:04,242 --> 00:13:07,996
When he arrived at a very
risky to climb without a rope,

204
00:13:09,038 --> 00:13:10,081
he used the equipment.

205
00:13:10,873 --> 00:13:12,000
I placed a piece

206
00:13:13,293 --> 00:13:14,460
and moved with it.

207
00:13:15,086 --> 00:13:16,296
He put the equipment

208
00:13:16,963 --> 00:13:20,008
and then let go
to return to free solo climbing.

209
00:13:21,676 --> 00:13:24,637
Suddenly,
he threw it upwards.

210
00:13:26,389 --> 00:13:30,143
Half's previous climbing time
Dome was around 20 hours.

211
00:13:32,353 --> 00:13:33,563
And Dean climbed in four?

212
00:13:33,646 --> 00:13:35,857
POTTER CLIMBS THE HALF DOME
LIKE A BULLET

213
00:13:35,940 --> 00:13:40,194
It was at that moment that I realized
that Dean was a talent

214
00:13:40,278 --> 00:13:41,654
that broke paradigms,

215
00:13:41,821 --> 00:13:44,824
with a totally different shape
to think about what was possible.

216
00:13:50,163 --> 00:13:51,414
It's around here somewhere.

217
00:13:54,584 --> 00:13:56,502
This is Masters Of Stone.

218
00:13:56,753 --> 00:13:57,795
In our time,

219
00:13:57,879 --> 00:14:01,382
the height of entertainment
of climbing was Masters Of Stone.

220
00:14:03,176 --> 00:14:04,635
Those classic videos,

221
00:14:05,303 --> 00:14:06,971
with everyone
those famous climbers,

222
00:14:07,930 --> 00:14:08,973
to the sound of Hair Metal.

223
00:14:09,474 --> 00:14:11,809
Some parts were a little cheesy,
but...

224
00:14:12,435 --> 00:14:13,478
ROCK WARRIORS

225
00:14:15,313 --> 00:14:16,939
It was more or less porn
of climbing.

226
00:14:17,857 --> 00:14:20,151
But the guy who made the movies,
Eric Perlman,

227
00:14:20,777 --> 00:14:22,862
saw everything
in an epic way.

228
00:14:23,279 --> 00:14:25,615
I belong to the generation
of the Vietnam War

229
00:14:25,990 --> 00:14:27,325
and recognized

230
00:14:27,909 --> 00:14:30,370
that there is something
intrinsically beautiful

231
00:14:30,745 --> 00:14:32,246
when life is at risk.

232
00:14:33,331 --> 00:14:38,836
The most extreme of sports
adventure elevates the human spirit

233
00:14:38,961 --> 00:14:41,214
on a completely new level.

234
00:14:42,256 --> 00:14:44,634
This is what evolution demands
of us.

235
00:14:45,718 --> 00:14:48,805
I had heard about this guy,
Dean Potter.

236
00:14:49,347 --> 00:14:51,265
I thought I should get in touch
with him.

237
00:14:51,682 --> 00:14:54,477
At that time, the reputation
Dean had already grown up,

238
00:14:54,811 --> 00:14:56,896
but he was still
kind of underground.

239
00:14:57,730 --> 00:15:01,442
Dean made fun nonstop
of sponsored climbers

240
00:15:01,692 --> 00:15:03,152
who promote themselves
shamelessly

241
00:15:03,319 --> 00:15:07,657
and took the capitalist reality
into our sacred climb.

242
00:15:08,699 --> 00:15:11,285
"I feel that climbers are
too influenced

243
00:15:11,452 --> 00:15:12,745
by searching for numbers,

244
00:15:12,912 --> 00:15:14,997
competition, fame and status

245
00:15:15,289 --> 00:15:16,749
and left the soul aside.

246
00:15:19,001 --> 00:15:20,461
Never sacrifice my soul."

247
00:15:21,379 --> 00:15:23,714
But at the same time,
he worried about the future

248
00:15:24,132 --> 00:15:26,676
and obviously
I wasn't going to get a steady job.

249
00:15:27,343 --> 00:15:30,930
I said, "Man, can you
be a professional climber.

250
00:15:31,556 --> 00:15:33,599
Record something with Eric Perlman

251
00:15:33,933 --> 00:15:35,435
and get some sponsorships

252
00:15:35,643 --> 00:15:36,686
to support yourself."

253
00:15:38,646 --> 00:15:39,689
In the end,

254
00:15:39,772 --> 00:15:43,234
I think Dean noticed
to tell a story

255
00:15:43,901 --> 00:15:49,490
it was a way to be able to do
what you love in life and get paid for it.

256
00:15:50,324 --> 00:15:51,367
Action!

257
00:15:53,494 --> 00:15:56,539
And he embraced the process
to make the film.

258
00:16:01,419 --> 00:16:03,921
He united the development
of his technique,

259
00:16:05,298 --> 00:16:06,674
his creativity

260
00:16:07,258 --> 00:16:08,634
and the boldness...

261
00:16:11,262 --> 00:16:12,513
and presented it all

262
00:16:13,890 --> 00:16:17,185
on the most impactful stage
When talking about climbing:

263
00:16:18,644 --> 00:16:19,687
El Capitan.

264
00:16:19,770 --> 00:16:20,813
EL CAPITAN 914 METERS

265
00:16:21,230 --> 00:16:24,734
Timmy played the role of a climber
common on El Capitan.

266
00:16:24,942 --> 00:16:26,319
We came up with a deal.

267
00:16:26,527 --> 00:16:27,653
Dean was going to overtake me.

268
00:16:27,737 --> 00:16:29,113
Dean ran past.

269
00:16:29,489 --> 00:16:30,781
What's up, man? Don't touch me.

270
00:16:31,365 --> 00:16:32,783
"Don't touch me, man!"

271
00:16:33,242 --> 00:16:35,328
And I stayed
with that stupid face.

272
00:16:38,247 --> 00:16:40,583
There was a certain theatricality to it.

273
00:16:41,292 --> 00:16:42,335
Holy crap.

274
00:16:42,460 --> 00:16:44,337
But I had a feeling that,

275
00:16:44,420 --> 00:16:47,131
when people saw
what was he doing,

276
00:16:49,217 --> 00:16:50,259
they would think:

277
00:16:50,384 --> 00:16:52,261
"This guy was a superhuman.

278
00:16:59,894 --> 00:17:00,937
As an athlete,

279
00:17:01,145 --> 00:17:04,565
Dean was
the most natural artist.

280
00:17:05,608 --> 00:17:06,733
But speaking,

281
00:17:06,858 --> 00:17:09,487
articulating ideas...

282
00:17:09,612 --> 00:17:10,738
When I reach the top...

283
00:17:12,323 --> 00:17:15,451
When I reach the top...
 �, wait a bit.

284
00:17:16,077 --> 00:17:17,869
- Needed a little encouragement.
- Speak.

285
00:17:18,119 --> 00:17:20,915
When I finally reach the top,
a part of me gets really excited,

286
00:17:20,998 --> 00:17:22,124
but the rest of me stays...

287
00:17:22,290 --> 00:17:23,334
Yeah, damn.

288
00:17:23,792 --> 00:17:26,087
- Most of me.
- Most of me. Damn!

289
00:17:26,170 --> 00:17:27,547
I think, in the beginning,

290
00:17:27,630 --> 00:17:30,633
he was just trying
remain authentic.

291
00:17:31,467 --> 00:17:33,177
This has nothing to do with me.

292
00:17:33,344 --> 00:17:35,805
It's so different
how we usually talk.

293
00:17:35,888 --> 00:17:37,723
My job was just to guide him.

294
00:17:38,224 --> 00:17:39,809
Here I am, at the top,

295
00:17:40,101 --> 00:17:41,727
with your feet firmly on the ground,

296
00:17:41,852 --> 00:17:44,063
enjoying
the view and life is good.

297
00:17:44,146 --> 00:17:46,065
You do the dialogue
and I just move my mouth.

298
00:17:46,357 --> 00:17:47,400
Here I am,

299
00:17:47,692 --> 00:17:49,902
at the top,
with your feet firmly on the ground

300
00:17:50,403 --> 00:17:51,445
and life is good.

301
00:17:57,326 --> 00:18:00,121
Masters Of Stone changed lives
from Dean.

302
00:18:00,997 --> 00:18:04,875
Suddenly he stopped being
Dean and became Dean Potter.

303
00:18:06,294 --> 00:18:07,628
He was in magazines

304
00:18:08,212 --> 00:18:09,589
and got sponsorship.

305
00:18:10,548 --> 00:18:11,591
Until then,

306
00:18:11,674 --> 00:18:13,759
he was totally turned on
It's counterculture.

307
00:18:14,093 --> 00:18:16,971
Afterwards, he started
promoting brands and such.

308
00:18:17,888 --> 00:18:21,726
At first he didn't want
fully buy into the idea.

309
00:18:22,351 --> 00:18:24,770
For me, the equipment
most important thing I have

310
00:18:24,937 --> 00:18:27,648
It's something that makes my body
run cleanly and strong.

311
00:18:28,107 --> 00:18:30,860
Odwalla,
he delivers what he promises.

312
00:18:37,783 --> 00:18:39,869
We picked on Dean a little
because of that.

313
00:18:39,952 --> 00:18:41,287
He just climbed...

314
00:18:41,996 --> 00:18:44,707
only by sponsors,
understand?

315
00:18:50,671 --> 00:18:53,674
Dean started having
a mysticism around him.

316
00:18:55,760 --> 00:18:59,013
He was the center of all that
group of characters in Yosemite.

317
00:19:00,222 --> 00:19:02,808
I had just turned 18
when I went to Yosemite.

318
00:19:03,434 --> 00:19:05,603
We were like Peter Pan
and the Lost Boys.

319
00:19:05,686 --> 00:19:07,980
And Dean was a great
influence for all of us.

320
00:19:08,439 --> 00:19:10,900
Dean represented
what I wanted to be,

321
00:19:11,651 --> 00:19:14,278
a tough guy who risked everything,
bold,

322
00:19:14,362 --> 00:19:15,571
that went beyond the limits.

323
00:19:16,405 --> 00:19:19,200
I was lucky to be
in the same tribe as him.

324
00:19:23,954 --> 00:19:24,997
Drug.

325
00:19:25,081 --> 00:19:28,084
We called ourselves the Rock Monkeys
and we had our battle cry.

326
00:19:28,334 --> 00:19:29,377
We did it like this...

327
00:19:31,420 --> 00:19:33,589
We did imitations on El Capitan
in a party atmosphere.

328
00:19:33,673 --> 00:19:35,633
- Vodka!
- A full bar,

329
00:19:36,175 --> 00:19:37,218
grams of marijuana.

330
00:19:37,301 --> 00:19:38,344
Wake up and smoke.

331
00:19:38,427 --> 00:19:39,720
Don't tell your parents.

332
00:19:39,845 --> 00:19:41,389
We had a huge bag
of mushrooms.

333
00:19:41,847 --> 00:19:44,350
- I'm shaking too.
- I'm scared to death.

334
00:19:44,433 --> 00:19:46,560
Let's set up a rope
to jump here.

335
00:19:46,644 --> 00:19:47,853
And then we jumped.

336
00:19:50,690 --> 00:19:52,400
My God!

337
00:19:52,692 --> 00:19:53,901
 �!

338
00:19:55,069 --> 00:19:56,696
They're crazy as hell.

339
00:19:58,572 --> 00:20:00,324
El Capitan!

340
00:20:00,408 --> 00:20:01,909
It was kind of a wild existence.

341
00:20:03,077 --> 00:20:04,578
But it was a national park.

342
00:20:05,079 --> 00:20:07,665
There was always that battle
with forest rangers.

343
00:20:07,748 --> 00:20:09,625
They would give us fines
and things like that.

344
00:20:09,709 --> 00:20:11,210
I don't want them to come here
and cut.

345
00:20:11,377 --> 00:20:13,212
We were all afraid
of forest rangers.

346
00:20:13,295 --> 00:20:14,714
They had guns and hats.

347
00:20:14,839 --> 00:20:16,298
But Dean wasn't afraid.

348
00:20:16,382 --> 00:20:17,425
How are you?

349
00:20:17,508 --> 00:20:18,676
Hi. How are you?

350
00:20:18,759 --> 00:20:19,802
Turn off the camera.

351
00:20:20,469 --> 00:20:21,512
No, thank you.

352
00:20:21,971 --> 00:20:25,474
Yes, at one time I was a bit aggressive
with forest rangers.

353
00:20:26,142 --> 00:20:29,353
My fundamental principle is
be free.

354
00:20:29,729 --> 00:20:33,232
And I guess as long as I'm not
harming no one,

355
00:20:33,482 --> 00:20:34,984
I must not be limited.

356
00:20:35,484 --> 00:20:37,987
Why did you stop me?
I was only honking because...

357
00:20:38,070 --> 00:20:40,406
It is necessary to give preference
back there.

358
00:20:40,489 --> 00:20:42,324
No, sir. That's a lie.

359
00:20:42,491 --> 00:20:43,951
- Right.
- You're harassing me.

360
00:20:44,076 --> 00:20:48,372
But unfortunately,
we are so bound by rules

361
00:20:48,706 --> 00:20:51,876
that don't allow me to be
the wild and natural guy

362
00:20:52,209 --> 00:20:54,920
which I think everyone should
can be.

363
00:20:55,588 --> 00:20:57,256
He was a complete iconoclast.

364
00:20:57,381 --> 00:20:59,091
He did whatever he wanted.

365
00:20:59,633 --> 00:21:00,676
Hey!

366
00:21:01,469 --> 00:21:02,511
You crazy!

367
00:21:03,596 --> 00:21:06,932
And it became part of the myth
by Dean Potter.

368
00:21:08,100 --> 00:21:09,143
As things grew

369
00:21:09,226 --> 00:21:10,811
and he won
more recognition,

370
00:21:11,061 --> 00:21:14,648
it looked like he was
taking himself much more seriously.

371
00:21:15,649 --> 00:21:19,653
He started to believe
who could be the best climber.

372
00:21:20,196 --> 00:21:21,864
The best of all time
in Yosemite.

373
00:21:23,491 --> 00:21:25,367
Dean called me and said, "Timmy,

374
00:21:26,118 --> 00:21:27,161
I need your help.

375
00:21:28,078 --> 00:21:30,122
The time has come to break
the speed record

376
00:21:30,206 --> 00:21:31,624
in El Capitan's The Nose.

377
00:21:32,750 --> 00:21:34,335
Climb 914 meters

378
00:21:35,127 --> 00:21:37,213
the fastest
as humanly possible.

379
00:21:38,839 --> 00:21:40,341
This is something intense.

380
00:21:41,133 --> 00:21:42,301
We start the timer

381
00:21:43,219 --> 00:21:44,345
and we went climbing.

382
00:21:45,095 --> 00:21:47,473
Normally, it would take several days,

383
00:21:48,599 --> 00:21:50,810
but we were trying
do it in a few hours.

384
00:21:51,811 --> 00:21:53,521
Dean had a special system.

385
00:21:55,064 --> 00:21:56,524
We were climbing
at the same time,

386
00:21:56,774 --> 00:21:58,442
what made everything
even more dangerous.

387
00:21:59,527 --> 00:22:01,695
Once, I fell
from a height of 30 meters.

388
00:22:03,155 --> 00:22:04,698
I crashed into a wall.

389
00:22:05,533 --> 00:22:07,701
And I thought, "I'm still alive,
How can that be?"

390
00:22:08,911 --> 00:22:09,954
Then Dean shouted:

391
00:22:10,120 --> 00:22:11,539
"The system works!

392
00:22:11,831 --> 00:22:13,040
Go, go, go!”

393
00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:17,336
I love the adrenaline
of speed climbing.

394
00:22:17,628 --> 00:22:19,171
Simply go
climbing the rock,

395
00:22:19,797 --> 00:22:21,590
no rules, whatever the cost.

396
00:22:21,799 --> 00:22:23,467
Just finding a way
and moving forward.

397
00:22:24,760 --> 00:22:27,429
We overcome the tiredness,
we got into that rhythm

398
00:22:27,721 --> 00:22:29,598
and suddenly we're on top.

399
00:22:29,682 --> 00:22:30,724
And that's it.

400
00:22:31,809 --> 00:22:32,852
We broke the record.

401
00:22:32,935 --> 00:22:34,228
THE NOSE SPEED RECORD

402
00:22:34,311 --> 00:22:35,980
Climbing Magazine placed it
on the cover.

403
00:22:36,313 --> 00:22:39,358
I appeared nearby
of the barcode.

404
00:22:41,068 --> 00:22:42,111
And soon after,

405
00:22:42,236 --> 00:22:44,280
the record was broken
by Hans Florine.

406
00:22:45,573 --> 00:22:49,660
Hans Florine was a legendary figure
in Yosemite speed climbing.

407
00:22:49,869 --> 00:22:51,620
Did you understand? Mr. El Capitan.

408
00:22:53,038 --> 00:22:55,124
Very good,
Hollywood Hans Florine.

409
00:22:56,041 --> 00:22:59,169
I'm known for climbing
El Capitan is very fast.

410
00:23:00,087 --> 00:23:02,756
I have a history
of competitive athlete.

411
00:23:02,840 --> 00:23:05,134
The most exciting competitor,
Hans Florin...

412
00:23:05,259 --> 00:23:07,428
I wasn't like Dean
and his friends,

413
00:23:07,803 --> 00:23:09,471
in cut-off jeans,

414
00:23:10,222 --> 00:23:11,265
with the thought:

415
00:23:11,974 --> 00:23:13,434
"I'm in Yosemite

416
00:23:13,809 --> 00:23:15,185
because I hate my parents

417
00:23:15,311 --> 00:23:18,022
or because I don't want to do it
what society says."

418
00:23:19,899 --> 00:23:21,609
I was there
because I wanted to be the best.

419
00:23:21,984 --> 00:23:24,528
Hans held the record
at The Nose for 10 years.

420
00:23:25,487 --> 00:23:28,073
When I found out that Dean and Timmy
had broken the record,

421
00:23:28,157 --> 00:23:29,742
I was excited as hell.

422
00:23:29,867 --> 00:23:30,951
There was a "race".

423
00:23:32,870 --> 00:23:34,788
Two weeks later,
I went to recover the record.

424
00:23:35,664 --> 00:23:37,583
I think this record will last
a long time.

425
00:23:38,000 --> 00:23:42,755
After that, I think Dean
got carried away by the competition.

426
00:23:44,048 --> 00:23:48,093
And that's when we started to see
this more aggressive side of Dean,

427
00:23:48,928 --> 00:23:50,346
that he couldn't control.

428
00:23:51,472 --> 00:23:52,640
So we tried again.

429
00:23:53,015 --> 00:23:55,184
And Dean knew
be a damn crazy person.

430
00:23:55,517 --> 00:23:56,852
We were climbing The Nose,

431
00:23:56,936 --> 00:23:59,396
I forgot the equipment,
I made this mistake, and he said:

432
00:23:59,521 --> 00:24:01,023
"You fucked us!

433
00:24:01,148 --> 00:24:03,150
Let's lose the record, man!"

434
00:24:03,233 --> 00:24:06,278
My second or third climb
of speed was with Dean.

435
00:24:06,779 --> 00:24:10,032
I think my device got stuck
and he started shouting at me:

436
00:24:10,282 --> 00:24:11,784
"What the fuck are you doing?

437
00:24:12,034 --> 00:24:13,661
We're wasting time!"

438
00:24:13,744 --> 00:24:16,205
He was very intense
and determined

439
00:24:16,497 --> 00:24:21,293
and sometimes it ended up overflowing
and he became a bit of an asshole.

440
00:24:23,879 --> 00:24:26,465
So Dean and I
we broke the record again,

441
00:24:26,799 --> 00:24:28,258
with about 40 minutes less.

442
00:24:28,717 --> 00:24:31,595
I said: "Congratulations, you
broke the record. How awesome!

443
00:24:32,054 --> 00:24:33,847
How did you do it?"

444
00:24:34,264 --> 00:24:36,558
I haven't heard a word from Dean.

445
00:24:36,684 --> 00:24:39,019
He didn't want to face me
and talk to me.

446
00:24:40,062 --> 00:24:44,608
Dean and Hans continued
dueling at The Nose.

447
00:24:45,192 --> 00:24:48,278
Competing with Hans disgusted me.

448
00:24:48,612 --> 00:24:51,073
He was like a puppy
hugging my leg.

449
00:24:52,199 --> 00:24:57,871
I hate the fact that he wants
ruin what I was doing.

450
00:24:58,998 --> 00:25:03,002
And I hate the fact that it has
awakened the puppy in me...

451
00:25:03,877 --> 00:25:04,920
Damn!

452
00:25:05,045 --> 00:25:07,297
...to do the same.

453
00:25:10,968 --> 00:25:13,929
I forced him to show
how competitive he was

454
00:25:14,138 --> 00:25:16,265
and exposed one side
too dark of him.

455
00:25:16,473 --> 00:25:18,350
Do you think Hans will be excited?
to return?

456
00:25:18,434 --> 00:25:19,685
I don't give a damn about Hans.

457
00:25:20,019 --> 00:25:21,353
Do you want me to break your camera?

458
00:25:21,520 --> 00:25:22,563
Keep it.

459
00:25:23,731 --> 00:25:27,985
I thought, "Man, I can't believe what I
I transformed during the competition.

460
00:25:28,068 --> 00:25:29,611
I was a real idiot."

461
00:25:31,196 --> 00:25:32,448
So I controlled myself

462
00:25:33,490 --> 00:25:36,410
and I realized that it's not that type
of the person I want to be.

463
00:25:47,796 --> 00:25:49,339
Beauty,
we have two cameras recording.

464
00:25:53,761 --> 00:25:54,803
Winky!

465
00:25:55,512 --> 00:25:56,555
Bullwinkle.

466
00:25:56,638 --> 00:25:58,057
DEAN'S FRIEND, PHOTOGRAPHER

467
00:25:58,140 --> 00:25:59,183
Dean Fidelman.

468
00:26:00,601 --> 00:26:02,269
I answer
by most of these names.

469
00:26:04,938 --> 00:26:07,775
I walk through this valley
a long time ago.

470
00:26:07,900 --> 00:26:08,942
Open.

471
00:26:11,361 --> 00:26:15,699
I was part of the Stone Masters,
a group of young climbers

472
00:26:16,075 --> 00:26:18,285
who dominated Yosemite
in the 1970s.

473
00:26:23,999 --> 00:26:28,128
I grew up with a lot of climbers
extraordinary things and documented them.

474
00:26:30,547 --> 00:26:31,840
We shared that place.

475
00:26:34,968 --> 00:26:36,011
And then...

476
00:26:37,012 --> 00:26:39,515
they left me, they became
industrial tycoons,

477
00:26:39,598 --> 00:26:41,850
died,
married or formed families.

478
00:26:41,934 --> 00:26:43,393
And I didn't do any of that.

479
00:26:44,770 --> 00:26:45,813
I stayed.

480
00:26:49,191 --> 00:26:50,359
I never left this place.

481
00:26:55,322 --> 00:26:57,991
When I met Dean,
in 1996 or 1997,

482
00:26:58,283 --> 00:27:00,244
he came to me one day
and asked:

483
00:27:00,702 --> 00:27:02,246
"Why are you here
in Yosemite?"

484
00:27:03,580 --> 00:27:05,374
I replied:
"I'm an artist, I make art."

485
00:27:05,624 --> 00:27:07,000
I do things wrong

486
00:27:07,584 --> 00:27:10,420
and I'm a loser
in some aspects.

487
00:27:11,171 --> 00:27:13,465
But I'd rather stay here,
sleep in the field

488
00:27:13,841 --> 00:27:15,801
and take my photos.

489
00:27:16,760 --> 00:27:17,928
It was what I wanted to do.

490
00:27:19,179 --> 00:27:20,222
He believed in me

491
00:27:21,640 --> 00:27:23,809
when few
people believed.

492
00:27:25,644 --> 00:27:29,857
Bullwinkle is one of the guys
which I admire.

493
00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:33,735
The Stone Masters did
what they wanted,

494
00:27:33,819 --> 00:27:37,531
the way they thought was coolest,
radical and that made them feel good,

495
00:27:37,739 --> 00:27:41,034
in a way,
immune to society's opinion.

496
00:27:44,037 --> 00:27:46,290
Dean definitely was
driven by ego,

497
00:27:47,916 --> 00:27:53,589
but he didn't want to be that one
super competitive sports guy.

498
00:27:54,339 --> 00:27:57,092
He was looking for a connection
deeper.

499
00:27:58,427 --> 00:28:00,512
We want to do
part of nature.

500
00:28:03,765 --> 00:28:05,684
He identified
with animals,

501
00:28:06,393 --> 00:28:07,895
especially with the crows.

502
00:28:09,730 --> 00:28:13,358
The crow was definitely
a great symbol for him.

503
00:28:14,943 --> 00:28:16,236
We spent a lot of time together

504
00:28:17,446 --> 00:28:18,614
taking photos

505
00:28:19,656 --> 00:28:20,782
and talking about art.

506
00:28:26,955 --> 00:28:33,003
Right off the bat,
I realized he was an athlete

507
00:28:33,962 --> 00:28:35,214
and an artist.

508
00:28:42,054 --> 00:28:45,557
He needed to find out
how these two things fit together.

509
00:28:52,606 --> 00:28:56,735
I look at the wall or see
the space between the formations

510
00:28:57,861 --> 00:28:59,863
and I kind of see a flash
or an image.

511
00:29:02,115 --> 00:29:03,533
And I want to get into that.

512
00:29:04,868 --> 00:29:08,872
I see myself becoming one
with beauty and nature.

513
00:29:10,207 --> 00:29:11,250
And so I live it.

514
00:29:19,925 --> 00:29:23,804
He was definitely looking
a spiritual path.

515
00:29:27,683 --> 00:29:29,810
But I also fought...

516
00:29:31,937 --> 00:29:33,146
who he was

517
00:29:34,898 --> 00:29:36,275
and who he wanted to be.

518
00:29:48,370 --> 00:29:50,247
"I dream about Stephanie.

519
00:29:50,831 --> 00:29:51,873
I miss her

520
00:29:52,416 --> 00:29:54,501
and I wonder
what she feels for me.

521
00:29:55,585 --> 00:29:58,046
My love, my love,
I long for..." How horrible.

522
00:29:58,672 --> 00:30:00,507
Man, how sweet.

523
00:30:01,049 --> 00:30:03,510
MY LOVE, MY LOVE
I LONG FOR HER

524
00:30:03,593 --> 00:30:04,636
And action.

525
00:30:04,803 --> 00:30:08,015
My name is Steph Davis.
I'm 26 years old.

526
00:30:08,348 --> 00:30:13,020
I practice climbing
almost eight years ago.

527
00:30:19,192 --> 00:30:23,488
Steph Davis is a climber
very strong,

528
00:30:23,989 --> 00:30:25,240
very determined.

529
00:30:28,493 --> 00:30:30,954
She was trying
decide whether to be a lawyer

530
00:30:31,121 --> 00:30:32,497
or professional climber.

531
00:30:32,914 --> 00:30:34,541
Steph did that classic thing

532
00:30:34,624 --> 00:30:36,918
of those scoundrels who abandon
the faculty of law

533
00:30:37,002 --> 00:30:38,462
and they go live in a van

534
00:30:39,171 --> 00:30:42,049
and became
an incredible adventurer

535
00:30:42,841 --> 00:30:44,468
who made huge climbs.

536
00:30:44,551 --> 00:30:45,886
THE QUEEN OF THE DESERT

537
00:30:45,969 --> 00:30:50,223
I wrote an article about how she
she was building her life her way.

538
00:30:50,766 --> 00:30:53,435
My profession is very vague,

539
00:30:53,518 --> 00:30:55,896
but mainly involves
climb a lot.

540
00:30:56,688 --> 00:30:58,940
She didn't just climb
at the highest level,

541
00:30:59,399 --> 00:31:04,529
as I had also achieved
a great sponsorship of Patagonia.

542
00:31:04,780 --> 00:31:07,115
See,
I have a lot of striped clothes.

543
00:31:08,241 --> 00:31:10,619
There was no one like her

544
00:31:10,702 --> 00:31:11,745
at that time.

545
00:31:13,288 --> 00:31:16,541
Dean and Steph started
dating in the early years.

546
00:31:17,501 --> 00:31:20,796
He loved Steph more than me
I've never seen anyone love another.

547
00:31:21,963 --> 00:31:24,591
In many ways, they
they seemed made for each other.

548
00:31:25,509 --> 00:31:26,927
They were two beautiful people,

549
00:31:27,719 --> 00:31:29,137
two of the best climbers.

550
00:31:31,014 --> 00:31:36,728
But there was some friction between Steph,
who was a focused professional,

551
00:31:37,604 --> 00:31:40,273
and Dean, who still
He was a damn kid.

552
00:31:44,152 --> 00:31:46,530
They have always been
a turbulent couple.

553
00:31:46,905 --> 00:31:47,948
It achieved?

554
00:31:49,533 --> 00:31:51,618
Dean, you didn't take
the left hand when gripping.

555
00:31:51,701 --> 00:31:53,203
They both had opinions
very strong.

556
00:31:53,286 --> 00:31:54,704
It doesn't even matter. It was easy.

557
00:31:54,913 --> 00:31:55,997
They were stubborn

558
00:31:56,081 --> 00:31:57,541
I know, but this makes it a lot easier.

559
00:31:59,793 --> 00:32:02,170
With these two people
extremely determined,

560
00:32:02,963 --> 00:32:04,548
adrenaline was running wild.

561
00:32:08,135 --> 00:32:09,386
With Dean,

562
00:32:10,887 --> 00:32:13,223
emotions were raw.

563
00:32:14,891 --> 00:32:16,518
Things with Steph and love,

564
00:32:17,269 --> 00:32:20,772
this is more powerful
than anything.

565
00:32:21,648 --> 00:32:24,067
He always had
a very big fear

566
00:32:25,235 --> 00:32:27,237
to be controlled.

567
00:32:29,656 --> 00:32:33,368
And that made relationships
very difficult for him.

568
00:32:34,578 --> 00:32:37,497
There were several cycles
of passionate love

569
00:32:37,581 --> 00:32:39,040
and endings.

570
00:32:39,749 --> 00:32:41,251
He was desperate,

571
00:32:42,127 --> 00:32:43,128
almost obsessive.

572
00:32:43,211 --> 00:32:44,754
WOW, HOW SAD IS THIS

573
00:32:44,838 --> 00:32:47,340
Once,
he broke up with Steph

574
00:32:48,592 --> 00:32:50,093
and she went to Patagonia

575
00:32:50,969 --> 00:32:52,262
with another guy.

576
00:32:53,472 --> 00:32:55,307
They took those routes
difficult, baby.

577
00:32:55,849 --> 00:32:58,852
Dean stayed
furious and jealous.

578
00:32:59,895 --> 00:33:01,438
So he went there

579
00:33:01,813 --> 00:33:04,191
and turned into an animal
like never before.

580
00:33:04,274 --> 00:33:05,317
Okay, let's go.

581
00:33:06,443 --> 00:33:11,239
He was doing an alpine climb
absurd and pioneering after another,

582
00:33:11,740 --> 00:33:12,782
totally alone.

583
00:33:13,158 --> 00:33:15,577
That's it! Beauty!

584
00:33:16,286 --> 00:33:19,623
Then he tried to do
the first ascent of Fitz Roy,

585
00:33:19,789 --> 00:33:21,791
which is a mixture
of rock and ice.

586
00:33:22,709 --> 00:33:24,503
It is 2,134 meters to the top.

587
00:33:25,378 --> 00:33:28,423
He took a bottle of water
empty to reduce weight,

588
00:33:28,757 --> 00:33:31,009
so I can urinate on it
and then drink the urine.

589
00:33:33,720 --> 00:33:35,722
- It's so wrong!
- I'm going to drink my pee!

590
00:33:36,765 --> 00:33:37,974
You don't need to do that.

591
00:33:38,558 --> 00:33:39,601
He reached the top,

592
00:33:39,768 --> 00:33:42,521
but when he was coming down,
was hit by a rock.

593
00:33:43,021 --> 00:33:44,606
I hurt my head.

594
00:33:44,773 --> 00:33:46,233
Crawled to the camp
base.

595
00:33:47,734 --> 00:33:50,195
He definitely
crossed the line.

596
00:33:50,654 --> 00:33:53,740
And I think all of this was
to try to impress Steph.

597
00:33:58,578 --> 00:33:59,621
In the end,

598
00:34:00,163 --> 00:34:03,083
this couple
turbulent was understood.

599
00:34:06,211 --> 00:34:09,255
AND,
Against all odds,

600
00:34:10,422 --> 00:34:13,510
they decided to get married.

601
00:34:16,513 --> 00:34:18,098
I was one of the godparents.

602
00:34:18,974 --> 00:34:20,350
Jim officiated the ceremony.

603
00:34:20,516 --> 00:34:22,518
I remember writing something like:

604
00:34:22,643 --> 00:34:24,020
"They kind of deserve each other."

605
00:34:29,650 --> 00:34:33,362
There was a moment when everything
it fell into place for Dean.

606
00:34:33,446 --> 00:34:34,947
THE MOUNTAIN ABERRATION

607
00:34:35,031 --> 00:34:37,074
Dean and Steph had
a charming little house

608
00:34:37,242 --> 00:34:38,994
in Moab, Utah.

609
00:34:39,661 --> 00:34:41,329
They had another house in Yosemite

610
00:34:42,121 --> 00:34:44,958
and now they were both totally
sponsored by Patagonia,

611
00:34:45,500 --> 00:34:48,085
the most sophisticated brand
of that sport at the time.

612
00:34:51,172 --> 00:34:52,882
For Patagonia,
We were climbers,

613
00:34:53,132 --> 00:34:54,301
but also misfits

614
00:34:54,592 --> 00:34:55,635
and countercultural.

615
00:34:56,386 --> 00:34:58,972
Dean was a genius climber
and renegade

616
00:34:59,556 --> 00:35:02,851
and he kind of loved it
break the rules.

617
00:35:03,101 --> 00:35:06,021
And that went very well
with Patagonia.

618
00:35:06,271 --> 00:35:10,191
I spent ten years heading the department
of public relations in Patagonia.

619
00:35:10,859 --> 00:35:12,444
I remember when I met Dean.

620
00:35:13,194 --> 00:35:14,279
It was at a photo shoot

621
00:35:14,696 --> 00:35:16,948
and I called my mother, saying:

622
00:35:17,240 --> 00:35:19,534
"Mom, now I know
which is the power of stardom."

623
00:35:20,702 --> 00:35:22,704
He was, by far,
the coolest ambassador.

624
00:35:24,706 --> 00:35:26,249
People were attracted to him.

625
00:35:26,916 --> 00:35:28,960
Dean and Steph started
to become famous

626
00:35:29,044 --> 00:35:30,587
and make real money.

627
00:35:31,129 --> 00:35:32,172
Stop it!

628
00:35:32,213 --> 00:35:34,049
The climb was on the rise
as a sport

629
00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:36,259
and Dean surfed that wave.

630
00:35:37,010 --> 00:35:40,639
There was something really unique
in Dean's sport.

631
00:35:41,264 --> 00:35:43,516
It was like
if he were reinventing

632
00:35:43,642 --> 00:35:46,603
what it meant to be
a great outdoor athlete.

633
00:35:47,228 --> 00:35:49,439
He was seeing himself
from a new perspective.

634
00:35:50,649 --> 00:35:53,401
I was looking at his work
as an artistic performance.

635
00:35:55,153 --> 00:35:58,031
He wanted to share
his artistic vision with the world.

636
00:35:58,615 --> 00:36:02,118
It was then that we started filming
everything Dean did.

637
00:36:04,329 --> 00:36:05,372
Damn!

638
00:36:05,747 --> 00:36:07,624
He was killing it.

639
00:36:08,792 --> 00:36:10,919
And his sponsors were
very excited,

640
00:36:11,378 --> 00:36:12,921
mainly Patagonia.

641
00:36:13,713 --> 00:36:14,923
For about four years,

642
00:36:15,382 --> 00:36:18,718
Dean and Steph were
the poster boys

643
00:36:19,010 --> 00:36:21,471
of everything we represented
and everything we did.

644
00:36:22,347 --> 00:36:26,476
There was no one who doubted that they
they would stay with Patagonia forever.

645
00:36:29,062 --> 00:36:30,105
What is there for me to see?

646
00:36:30,188 --> 00:36:31,231
What is written.

647
00:36:33,108 --> 00:36:34,192
Delicate Bow.

648
00:36:35,151 --> 00:36:36,194
May...

649
00:36:37,445 --> 00:36:38,488
2006.

650
00:36:38,655 --> 00:36:39,698
Damn.

651
00:36:39,948 --> 00:36:41,032
Damn, man.

652
00:36:41,991 --> 00:36:43,034
Are you kidding me?

653
00:36:45,412 --> 00:36:48,915
Wait, you want to talk to me
over the Delicate Arch.

654
00:36:49,165 --> 00:36:53,044
I'm not going into that hole
bottomless full of shit.

655
00:36:54,087 --> 00:36:55,630
I have nothing to comment
about it.

656
00:36:55,714 --> 00:36:58,383
I can even comment, but I don't have
nothing to do with it.

657
00:36:58,591 --> 00:37:00,468
I really don't want
get into this subject.

658
00:37:01,010 --> 00:37:02,345
The Delicate Arch...

659
00:37:04,139 --> 00:37:05,306
it was toxic.

660
00:37:05,473 --> 00:37:08,017
Shit, you made me
talking about it, how horrible.

661
00:37:10,437 --> 00:37:14,858
Arco Delicado is one of the formations
most iconic rocks in the world.

662
00:37:15,191 --> 00:37:16,943
It's on Utah license plates

663
00:37:17,652 --> 00:37:20,029
and is visited by thousands
of tourists every year.

664
00:37:20,238 --> 00:37:23,825
The Delicate Arch looks almost
Too fragile to stand upright.

665
00:37:24,117 --> 00:37:26,286
We know that,
for climbers,

666
00:37:26,411 --> 00:37:28,037
there is an unwritten rule

667
00:37:28,121 --> 00:37:32,083
that there are certain formations
which should not be played with.

668
00:37:32,250 --> 00:37:34,794
So we were poking the leopard
with a short stick.

669
00:37:36,671 --> 00:37:39,048
And Dean, who was already
with Steph for a long time,

670
00:37:39,883 --> 00:37:42,385
I couldn't fool her
with ease.

671
00:37:47,056 --> 00:37:49,142
It was a secret operation

672
00:37:50,560 --> 00:37:53,313
where we sneaked out
in the middle of the night.

673
00:37:53,938 --> 00:37:54,981
Stay still.

674
00:37:57,192 --> 00:37:58,234
Did we bring the arrow?

675
00:37:59,068 --> 00:38:00,236
That's the arrow.

676
00:38:01,446 --> 00:38:03,198
The idea was to tie a string
on the arrow

677
00:38:04,908 --> 00:38:06,993
and throw it over the arch.

678
00:38:07,869 --> 00:38:08,912
Damn.

679
00:38:09,370 --> 00:38:12,499
Then, starting from the string,
take the rope up

680
00:38:12,582 --> 00:38:14,125
and set up an anchor
of security.

681
00:38:14,209 --> 00:38:15,251
Now yes.

682
00:38:15,335 --> 00:38:16,669
- �.
- Let's go.

683
00:38:16,920 --> 00:38:20,298
So Dean could rehearse
this before climbing alone.

684
00:38:22,342 --> 00:38:23,384
We went up there.

685
00:38:23,718 --> 00:38:26,513
It has a flat platform on top.

686
00:38:27,305 --> 00:38:28,473
We lay there

687
00:38:28,973 --> 00:38:30,433
and we look at the stars.

688
00:38:30,975 --> 00:38:32,018
I called Timmy:

689
00:38:32,101 --> 00:38:33,937
"I'm at the top of Arco Delicado.

690
00:38:35,230 --> 00:38:36,314
Dean will climb him."

691
00:38:36,898 --> 00:38:37,941
And Timmy said...

692
00:38:38,024 --> 00:38:41,027
This seems like a bad idea. It's not
What's on the license plate?

693
00:38:41,444 --> 00:38:43,112
Isn't it called "delicate"?

694
00:38:44,948 --> 00:38:46,950
Dean wanted to film that
right at dawn.

695
00:38:48,409 --> 00:38:49,661
Eric Perlman has arrived.

696
00:38:51,204 --> 00:38:52,247
Wait there.

697
00:38:53,331 --> 00:38:55,542
- Don't tell me what to do, Eric.
- Of course, sorry.

698
00:38:57,710 --> 00:38:58,753
I'm recording.

699
00:39:03,007 --> 00:39:05,260
He said, "It's the thing
the most beautiful thing I've ever tried to do.

700
00:39:05,343 --> 00:39:06,761
You need to be part of this."

701
00:39:15,061 --> 00:39:17,772
Aesthetically,
It was a classic work of art

702
00:39:19,023 --> 00:39:21,192
on a three-dimensional screen.

703
00:39:24,863 --> 00:39:28,157
A vision of humanity

704
00:39:29,492 --> 00:39:31,286
moving and flowing

705
00:39:32,537 --> 00:39:34,622
in harmony with nature.

706
00:39:38,960 --> 00:39:40,295
As Dean climbed,

707
00:39:41,754 --> 00:39:43,548
some birds appeared.

708
00:39:46,718 --> 00:39:48,386
And they went around
around.

709
00:39:54,851 --> 00:39:58,313
It was more magical

710
00:39:59,063 --> 00:40:01,024
than any of us
could have imagined.

711
00:40:16,039 --> 00:40:17,081
For Dean,

712
00:40:17,498 --> 00:40:20,126
the experience was very profound.

713
00:40:25,506 --> 00:40:28,384
He thought it would be one of the images
most iconic climbing

714
00:40:28,509 --> 00:40:29,677
of all time.

715
00:40:33,431 --> 00:40:34,766
I remember arriving at work

716
00:40:35,016 --> 00:40:38,394
and our athlete manager
At the time I was very excited

717
00:40:38,519 --> 00:40:41,439
because Dean Potter was over
to climb Arco Delicado.

718
00:40:42,106 --> 00:40:44,275
She said:
"I called the press

719
00:40:44,525 --> 00:40:46,527
and Dean showed the footage
for them."

720
00:40:46,986 --> 00:40:48,029
Initially,

721
00:40:48,404 --> 00:40:50,031
no one made any criticisms.

722
00:40:50,114 --> 00:40:51,699
It was another incredible feat
from Dean.

723
00:40:52,075 --> 00:40:53,159
You're watching Fox 13.

724
00:40:53,242 --> 00:40:54,619
And it was reported that night.

725
00:40:54,702 --> 00:40:57,455
A climber who arrived
at the top of Arco Delicado...

726
00:40:57,538 --> 00:41:00,249
Dean Potter is a climber
Patagonia professional.

727
00:41:00,333 --> 00:41:01,709
It is a very difficult climb.

728
00:41:01,793 --> 00:41:02,835
I wouldn't recommend...

729
00:41:02,919 --> 00:41:04,754
But there was no
It's just this superficial matter.

730
00:41:04,963 --> 00:41:07,632
They were investigating possible
violations of regulations.

731
00:41:08,341 --> 00:41:10,718
Potter says there was no problem
in climbing the arch,

732
00:41:10,802 --> 00:41:12,512
but the officers
from the park disagree.

733
00:41:13,012 --> 00:41:16,599
The direction of the Park
Nacional dos Arcos was furious.

734
00:41:17,266 --> 00:41:19,310
Immediately,
they changed the law.

735
00:41:20,311 --> 00:41:23,064
Potter may be the last person
climbing Arco Delicado,

736
00:41:23,147 --> 00:41:25,942
because National Service
of Parks implemented new rules.

737
00:41:26,776 --> 00:41:29,070
And then the whole controversy began.

738
00:41:29,278 --> 00:41:30,738
PARK TRIES TO BAN CLIMBING

739
00:41:31,155 --> 00:41:32,824
It became national headlines.

740
00:41:33,616 --> 00:41:35,034
In the climbing community,

741
00:41:35,743 --> 00:41:37,036
people were furious.

742
00:41:37,328 --> 00:41:41,040
Dean had provoked
new restrictions on climbing

743
00:41:41,124 --> 00:41:42,166
with advertising,

744
00:41:42,834 --> 00:41:44,168
with his arrogance

745
00:41:44,544 --> 00:41:47,588
and with the presumption that he could
do whatever you wanted.

746
00:41:49,882 --> 00:41:51,676
We didn't see this coming.

747
00:41:53,302 --> 00:41:54,387
TIM NEVILLE JOURNALIST

748
00:41:54,470 --> 00:41:57,181
I'm Tim Neville, correspondent
from Outside magazine.

749
00:41:57,932 --> 00:41:59,976
One of the big questions was

750
00:42:00,184 --> 00:42:03,021
if it had damaged
this sacred rock formation.

751
00:42:03,813 --> 00:42:05,732
I decided to send a photographer
to check.

752
00:42:06,441 --> 00:42:08,651
And he found damage.

753
00:42:09,610 --> 00:42:11,946
Clearly left grooves
by a rope

754
00:42:12,071 --> 00:42:15,074
exactly where they
they had climbed and filmed.

755
00:42:16,325 --> 00:42:19,412
Dean insisted that the damage
it had not been caused by him.

756
00:42:19,912 --> 00:42:21,330
I respected the rock

757
00:42:21,873 --> 00:42:24,709
and I left her exactly
how I found her.

758
00:42:25,209 --> 00:42:27,712
Man, we weren't
the first to go up there.

759
00:42:28,546 --> 00:42:30,673
There were already these rope grooves

760
00:42:31,049 --> 00:42:32,800
right where we were going to climb.

761
00:42:33,342 --> 00:42:36,012
There was a thorough investigation,

762
00:42:36,095 --> 00:42:38,598
down to the smallest details,
and I thought:

763
00:42:38,681 --> 00:42:40,058
"My God,

764
00:42:40,516 --> 00:42:42,268
This seems a bit extreme."

765
00:42:42,435 --> 00:42:45,146
I remember that after
that the story was released,

766
00:42:45,605 --> 00:42:47,315
I received an email

767
00:42:48,357 --> 00:42:51,110
from Dean with just one line
and two words:

768
00:42:51,360 --> 00:42:52,612
"You are scum."

769
00:42:53,154 --> 00:42:54,614
"You are one"
it was written wrong.

770
00:42:54,822 --> 00:42:55,865
I thought:

771
00:42:56,741 --> 00:42:57,784
"Okay."

772
00:42:58,951 --> 00:43:00,161
After the report,

773
00:43:00,536 --> 00:43:01,954
that turned into a snowball.

774
00:43:02,413 --> 00:43:04,916
People started attacking
Dean's sponsors.

775
00:43:05,249 --> 00:43:07,543
Suddenly everything passed
to be about Patagonia,

776
00:43:07,710 --> 00:43:09,045
as a supporter

777
00:43:09,337 --> 00:43:12,173
of acts that harm
our natural spaces.

778
00:43:12,381 --> 00:43:13,800
People wrote emails

779
00:43:13,925 --> 00:43:16,677
and postcards: "Never again
I will buy nothing from Patagonia."

780
00:43:16,761 --> 00:43:20,515
And that put Patagonia
in a very complicated position.

781
00:43:21,265 --> 00:43:25,353
There was an effort
for Dean to apologize.

782
00:43:25,603 --> 00:43:29,107
All he had to do was apologize and we could
sweep this shit under the rug.

783
00:43:29,649 --> 00:43:33,820
And Dean responded in his own way.

784
00:43:33,903 --> 00:43:36,531
PARK OFFICIALS WORRY
WITH DELICATE ARCH CLIMBING

785
00:43:36,614 --> 00:43:38,908
The greatest story
in the climbing world today

786
00:43:38,991 --> 00:43:41,202
involves the famous climber
Dean Potter.

787
00:43:41,285 --> 00:43:43,121
I was sitting in the room
when he was

788
00:43:43,204 --> 00:43:44,622
giving the interview to NPR.

789
00:43:44,705 --> 00:43:47,333
I asked why he
decided to climb Arco Delicado.

790
00:43:47,416 --> 00:43:49,001
He asked:
"Winky, what do I do?

791
00:43:49,085 --> 00:43:52,463
Will I apologize?
What do I need to do?"

792
00:43:52,797 --> 00:43:55,258
And I replied, "No,
Let's send everything to hell.

793
00:43:55,383 --> 00:43:57,969
Let's quote Edward Abbey

794
00:43:58,052 --> 00:44:00,763
and talk about a lot of other things
shit. Fuck these people."

795
00:44:01,139 --> 00:44:04,725
And that was the wrongest thing
to be done.

796
00:44:04,934 --> 00:44:06,811
You have a sponsor,
Patagonia,

797
00:44:06,894 --> 00:44:08,354
who wants you to apologize.

798
00:44:08,437 --> 00:44:09,897
- You can do this or...
- No.

799
00:44:09,981 --> 00:44:11,858
For sure,
I have some regrets.

800
00:44:12,608 --> 00:44:14,610
And I regret
the negative repercussion

801
00:44:14,694 --> 00:44:17,738
that my climb of the Arch
Delicate was in the press.

802
00:44:18,573 --> 00:44:21,033
So it seems that what else
makes you regret

803
00:44:21,117 --> 00:44:23,244
is the shape
how this was portrayed in the media.

804
00:44:23,703 --> 00:44:24,745
That's right.

805
00:44:24,871 --> 00:44:27,206
I think
that if we stick to the facts,

806
00:44:27,957 --> 00:44:30,293
a man climbed a rock

807
00:44:30,543 --> 00:44:32,211
without causing environmental damage,

808
00:44:32,920 --> 00:44:37,175
so there is nothing
what to apologize for

809
00:44:38,009 --> 00:44:40,678
beyond negative energy
that followed.

810
00:44:40,845 --> 00:44:44,056
Basically: "I feel
much more than the general public

811
00:44:44,223 --> 00:44:45,725
be completely oblivious
to the subject

812
00:44:45,933 --> 00:44:49,061
and don't understand what it's about."

813
00:44:49,562 --> 00:44:54,483
Definitely don't call me if you
have a problem with the media.

814
00:44:54,567 --> 00:44:56,444
I'll only make things worse.

815
00:44:59,071 --> 00:45:01,073
CONTROVERSY OVER DAMAGES
IN ARCH CLIMBING

816
00:45:01,657 --> 00:45:03,659
His livelihood was at stake

817
00:45:04,410 --> 00:45:07,496
and even then he didn't want
apologize.

818
00:45:08,789 --> 00:45:11,334
He felt misunderstood
by the media

819
00:45:11,876 --> 00:45:14,337
and betrayed by many people
from the climbing community

820
00:45:14,420 --> 00:45:15,838
who demonstrated against him.

821
00:45:17,173 --> 00:45:20,927
The question was: "Let's continue
associated with this guy?"

822
00:45:21,177 --> 00:45:26,265
Dean publicly stated
that the climb of Arco Delicado

823
00:45:26,390 --> 00:45:27,975
it was an artistic performance,

824
00:45:28,059 --> 00:45:33,147
which represented the connection
his spiritual relationship with nature

825
00:45:33,231 --> 00:45:35,149
and I didn't believe it.

826
00:45:35,775 --> 00:45:39,654
That was on
It's Dean's self-promotion

827
00:45:40,738 --> 00:45:43,199
and that made everything
a big lie.

828
00:45:46,827 --> 00:45:48,412
DEAN POTTER AND PATAGONIA BREAK UP

829
00:45:48,496 --> 00:45:51,832
The decision was to close
the bond with Dean.

830
00:45:53,167 --> 00:45:58,005
The worst thing is that they also broke up
the bond with Steph.

831
00:45:59,632 --> 00:46:01,050
Steph didn't plan any of this.

832
00:46:01,634 --> 00:46:03,094
But they ruled them both out.

833
00:46:04,220 --> 00:46:08,391
It had been some time since she
I knew that his provocative way

834
00:46:08,474 --> 00:46:09,934
it was problematic

835
00:46:10,810 --> 00:46:14,105
and now he had destroyed
this relationship

836
00:46:14,230 --> 00:46:16,524
which was very
important to her.

837
00:46:18,985 --> 00:46:22,488
The relationship between Steph
and Dean started to deteriorate.

838
00:46:23,155 --> 00:46:24,991
Dean couldn't handle the situation

839
00:46:26,617 --> 00:46:27,660
and left.

840
00:46:31,706 --> 00:46:33,624
He left Steph in Moab

841
00:46:34,375 --> 00:46:35,584
and drove to Yosemite.

842
00:46:38,754 --> 00:46:40,923
He needed to be alone.

843
00:46:43,342 --> 00:46:45,553
It was Dean coming in
in dark mode.

844
00:46:49,223 --> 00:46:50,683
Covering your face with a blanket,

845
00:46:52,143 --> 00:46:53,269
sleeping for days.

846
00:46:56,188 --> 00:46:59,942
Many people associated this
to mental health problems.

847
00:47:00,067 --> 00:47:01,819
I'M WORRIED ABOUT SADNESS

848
00:47:01,902 --> 00:47:03,612
You can call
of mental illness,

849
00:47:04,030 --> 00:47:05,948
you can call it the dark side,

850
00:47:06,824 --> 00:47:09,035
but when it arrived,

851
00:47:09,577 --> 00:47:12,663
It was difficult to deal with that,
difficult to explain.

852
00:47:16,375 --> 00:47:18,002
Looking back,

853
00:47:18,627 --> 00:47:20,254
we didn't talk much
about mental health,

854
00:47:20,421 --> 00:47:23,924
much less being men
practitioners of an extreme sport.

855
00:47:24,425 --> 00:47:26,927
We absorbed it all
and we repress.

856
00:47:29,055 --> 00:47:31,349
Dean and I understood each other.

857
00:47:32,308 --> 00:47:37,521
I was going through some
the same difficulties as him.

858
00:47:38,564 --> 00:47:40,691
Many mood swings,

859
00:47:41,734 --> 00:47:43,277
ups and downs, ups and downs.

860
00:47:44,779 --> 00:47:46,655
And we started talking

861
00:47:48,240 --> 00:47:49,784
about whether that was...

862
00:47:51,118 --> 00:47:52,161
a disease.

863
00:47:53,412 --> 00:47:55,539
When Dean
and Steph were fine,

864
00:47:55,956 --> 00:47:59,293
She encouraged him to seek help
for mental health.

865
00:48:00,002 --> 00:48:01,879
He received a prescription

866
00:48:02,213 --> 00:48:03,589
and started taking medicine.

867
00:48:04,340 --> 00:48:07,843
But he was terrified
with the possibility that they would discover

868
00:48:08,177 --> 00:48:10,221
that he was
taking this medicine.

869
00:48:11,305 --> 00:48:13,057
He threatened me, saying:

870
00:48:13,140 --> 00:48:16,352
"I'm going to kill you
if you tell anyone."

871
00:48:18,396 --> 00:48:19,563
After the Delicate Arc,

872
00:48:20,022 --> 00:48:21,065
he stopped.

873
00:48:21,565 --> 00:48:22,608
For good.

874
00:48:23,234 --> 00:48:25,111
The high moments were
even more intense

875
00:48:25,194 --> 00:48:27,029
and the low moments,
much deeper.

876
00:48:27,363 --> 00:48:31,826
I HOPE I GET OUT OF THIS SAD

877
00:48:31,909 --> 00:48:32,952
But for Dean,

878
00:48:34,870 --> 00:48:41,043
madness could be a species
source of creative power.

879
00:48:43,838 --> 00:48:47,049
After the sadness
and isolation,

880
00:48:48,676 --> 00:48:51,095
ideas began to emerge.

881
00:48:52,138 --> 00:48:54,140
Maybe a sketch in his diary.

882
00:48:55,850 --> 00:48:58,269
NO

883
00:48:58,352 --> 00:49:01,772
The passion transformed
in a fire.

884
00:49:03,149 --> 00:49:05,484
All that anguish
and all that anger,

885
00:49:06,444 --> 00:49:09,155
it was from
that it took away his energy.

886
00:49:11,740 --> 00:49:13,325
"I will show
for those bastards.

887
00:49:14,869 --> 00:49:16,495
I will release the beast."

888
00:49:19,206 --> 00:49:21,375
That's when the thing, for me,

889
00:49:21,876 --> 00:49:23,210
It started to get scary.

890
00:49:28,883 --> 00:49:30,885
Dean embarked on a wave
of solo climbing.

891
00:49:34,180 --> 00:49:37,558
Tried to climb free solo routes
with difficulty 5.12.

892
00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:44,190
Nobody had ever done that
in Yosemite.

893
00:49:52,490 --> 00:49:53,866
It was all or nothing.

894
00:49:54,408 --> 00:49:55,534
Climb a place solo,

895
00:49:55,743 --> 00:49:57,620
on the same day,
drive to another place

896
00:49:58,329 --> 00:49:59,497
and climb another solo route.

897
00:50:02,458 --> 00:50:04,335
He had crazy energy

898
00:50:04,627 --> 00:50:06,670
and impulsiveness.

899
00:50:18,557 --> 00:50:21,143
I felt that Dean was
climbing free solo

900
00:50:21,644 --> 00:50:23,187
at his physical limit.

901
00:50:25,481 --> 00:50:29,735
Risking everything
and trying to survive.

902
00:50:35,616 --> 00:50:38,869
I'm trying to free myself
of the limitations of this body,

903
00:50:40,037 --> 00:50:42,248
trying to go beyond the physical

904
00:50:42,831 --> 00:50:47,503
and not be stopped
for this carcass.

905
00:50:49,046 --> 00:50:52,299
The mind can take you
beyond the body.

906
00:50:53,467 --> 00:50:56,303
But there is a very fine line

907
00:50:56,804 --> 00:50:59,515
between taking you out of your body

908
00:50:59,640 --> 00:51:01,642
and reach the next level

909
00:51:02,476 --> 00:51:04,478
or take you out of your body

910
00:51:06,146 --> 00:51:07,189
and you die.

911
00:51:09,066 --> 00:51:10,442
Right before the solo climbs,

912
00:51:10,943 --> 00:51:13,529
I feel terribly nauseous.

913
00:51:15,364 --> 00:51:18,576
But I have no control.
I am compelled to do this.

914
00:51:22,121 --> 00:51:24,498
I don't want to live
if I can't do it.

915
00:51:31,505 --> 00:51:32,548
And then there was Heaven.

916
00:51:36,051 --> 00:51:38,429
Heaven was at its limit
of his skills.

917
00:51:45,227 --> 00:51:47,479
We knew he could fall.

918
00:51:49,398 --> 00:51:53,027
If you fall from that,
it will plummet thousands of meters.

919
00:51:55,988 --> 00:52:00,242
He told me clearly:
"If I fucking die, record it.

920
00:52:01,660 --> 00:52:03,579
Follow me to the ground
and record everything."

921
00:52:03,996 --> 00:52:05,956
The guy dying and me there,
recording? No.

922
00:52:07,333 --> 00:52:09,043
The body starts to get tired.

923
00:52:12,755 --> 00:52:16,008
We deal with conscience
that an error

924
00:52:16,300 --> 00:52:18,052
It could cost our lives.

925
00:52:23,974 --> 00:52:27,478
But what I have seen is that,
in these situations,

926
00:52:27,936 --> 00:52:30,981
We have incredible power
inside us.

927
00:52:32,399 --> 00:52:34,526
More power
than we can imagine.

928
00:52:36,904 --> 00:52:37,946
 �!

929
00:52:42,076 --> 00:52:43,285
 �!

930
00:52:44,286 --> 00:52:45,621
 �!

931
00:52:49,166 --> 00:52:50,918
Everyone sighed with relief.

932
00:52:52,670 --> 00:52:54,213
We said:
"Oh man, you did it."

933
00:52:55,339 --> 00:52:56,382
Dean.

934
00:52:57,049 --> 00:52:58,509
Really impressive, Dean.

935
00:53:00,386 --> 00:53:02,638
I was almost fainting
before starting.

936
00:53:02,721 --> 00:53:03,847
Well, you looked...

937
00:53:04,014 --> 00:53:05,057
Kind of like that...

938
00:53:05,599 --> 00:53:09,103
That was redemption
of the arc's history.

939
00:53:09,228 --> 00:53:12,147
Without a doubt,
That's what it meant to him.

940
00:53:12,773 --> 00:53:13,816
Cocksucker.

941
00:53:15,442 --> 00:53:16,485
It was like this:

942
00:53:16,568 --> 00:53:19,196
Fuck the skeptics,
fuck the sponsors,

943
00:53:19,863 --> 00:53:21,240
Fuck the park service.

944
00:53:22,032 --> 00:53:23,575
Nothing was going to stop him.

945
00:53:24,952 --> 00:53:26,286
Make him well-endowed.

946
00:53:26,704 --> 00:53:27,746
 �.

947
00:53:29,832 --> 00:53:30,874
At that moment,

948
00:53:31,291 --> 00:53:33,502
he thought he had
Found the magic formula.

949
00:53:34,545 --> 00:53:36,171
A part of me thinks
that I'm crazy,

950
00:53:36,505 --> 00:53:39,925
but every time
that you overcome a limitation

951
00:53:40,134 --> 00:53:42,219
you think:
“Fuck, I can do this.

952
00:53:42,344 --> 00:53:43,637
I can do anything."

953
00:53:43,804 --> 00:53:45,639
He was also
smoking a lot of marijuana.

954
00:53:45,723 --> 00:53:46,890
Just to make it clear.

955
00:53:48,142 --> 00:53:50,102
There are a lot of noisy people.

956
00:53:50,477 --> 00:53:52,688
Damn, are you
eating fries again.

957
00:54:00,738 --> 00:54:01,780
At a certain point,

958
00:54:01,864 --> 00:54:04,366
Steph called me and said:
"Hey, I'm worried about Dean.

959
00:54:04,450 --> 00:54:05,576
I haven't heard from him.

960
00:54:05,951 --> 00:54:09,037
Tell him to call me,
please. I need to talk to him."

961
00:54:10,080 --> 00:54:11,123
He was ignoring her.

962
00:54:11,206 --> 00:54:13,000
He asked:
"Don't return her calls."

963
00:54:13,751 --> 00:54:16,128
I'm glad you
calmed Steph down today, man.

964
00:54:16,378 --> 00:54:18,547
It's great to have friends
that can do this.

965
00:54:20,966 --> 00:54:23,677
She drove to Yosemite
to find him.

966
00:54:24,636 --> 00:54:25,763
I don't know what was said,

967
00:54:25,971 --> 00:54:28,599
but Katie Arnold, the journalist,
was there.

968
00:54:29,057 --> 00:54:31,977
I was doing a story
about Dean for ESPN.

969
00:54:32,269 --> 00:54:33,812
I arrived at Yosemite

970
00:54:34,271 --> 00:54:36,231
and I met Dean and Steph

971
00:54:36,732 --> 00:54:41,695
in the middle of an argument
very traumatic

972
00:54:42,070 --> 00:54:43,697
and I thought, "Holy shit,

973
00:54:44,615 --> 00:54:47,701
I'm witnessing the end
of their wedding."

974
00:54:49,453 --> 00:54:50,829
From what I understand,

975
00:54:51,622 --> 00:54:53,624
he wore the ring around his neck,

976
00:54:54,792 --> 00:54:56,418
took her away

977
00:54:58,003 --> 00:54:59,505
and played for Steph,
as if to say:

978
00:55:00,339 --> 00:55:01,381
"I want freedom.

979
00:55:02,341 --> 00:55:03,383
I want to be free."

980
00:55:06,178 --> 00:55:08,096
To Steph,

981
00:55:09,056 --> 00:55:10,516
she is the love of my life

982
00:55:11,183 --> 00:55:16,104
and I always thought that the most
important for me was love.

983
00:55:16,230 --> 00:55:18,690
MY DESTINY IS TO BE ALONE,
FREE FROM THE BONDAGES OF THE HEART

984
00:55:18,774 --> 00:55:21,026
But I'm being,
uncontrollably,

985
00:55:21,401 --> 00:55:24,613
drawn away from that
that I thought I loved the most.

986
00:55:26,323 --> 00:55:30,244
No matter how hard Steph tried
make their relationship

987
00:55:30,327 --> 00:55:32,788
a place of safety and peace...

988
00:55:32,871 --> 00:55:34,665
I WANT MY POWER BACK!

989
00:55:34,748 --> 00:55:37,167
...Dean didn't want security.

990
00:55:39,920 --> 00:55:43,340
He was
willing to go places

991
00:55:43,841 --> 00:55:46,510
that were previously
too scary.

992
00:55:54,768 --> 00:55:58,230
This is the moment
in which he frees himself from his bonds.

993
00:55:58,772 --> 00:56:00,232
Literally gets rid of them.

994
00:56:08,615 --> 00:56:10,409
He was
pushing the limits

995
00:56:10,951 --> 00:56:12,202
to such an extent...

996
00:56:14,329 --> 00:56:16,248
who freed himself from the rope.

997
00:57:10,761 --> 00:57:12,888
Damn!

998
00:57:13,639 --> 00:57:14,640
Damn!

999
00:57:22,022 --> 00:57:23,899
Dean was going
the wrong way.

1000
00:57:26,568 --> 00:57:28,528
I started to realize...

1001
00:57:33,200 --> 00:57:35,035
that his only therapy

1002
00:57:36,453 --> 00:57:37,746
it was the deadly consequence.

1003
00:57:51,927 --> 00:57:53,845
When I'm not tied up,

1004
00:57:54,096 --> 00:57:55,222
on the rope...

1005
00:57:58,392 --> 00:57:59,601
or on the rock,

1006
00:57:59,977 --> 00:58:01,103
on a free solo climb...

1007
00:58:04,231 --> 00:58:06,608
I need full concentration,

1008
00:58:08,402 --> 00:58:09,444
otherwise I die.

1009
00:58:12,072 --> 00:58:13,115
Somehow,

1010
00:58:13,532 --> 00:58:15,409
when my life
is at risk,

1011
00:58:16,952 --> 00:58:18,537
it elevates my senses

1012
00:58:19,413 --> 00:58:20,455
to an acute state...

1013
00:58:22,666 --> 00:58:24,292
of calm and clarity.

1014
00:58:29,297 --> 00:58:34,177
It's the most powerful feeling
that I have already experienced.

1015
01:00:10,690 --> 01:00:12,692
Subtitles: Winicius Sturm


